How To Build Farmhouse-Style Trim Cheap

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I’ve wanted to replace our builder-grade trim for a while now. But the cost was always a stumbling block to getting it done. I’m happy to say I’ve figured out how to build farmhouse-style trim cheap using common lumber.

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I’m replacing all of the builder-grade trim in my entire home one wall or area at a time. It’s an extensive job, but for the charm and character it adds, it is totally worth the time and effort.

What was here originally is not actually baseboard trim or window trim at all, it’s chair rail which is the cheapest builder-grade option and pretty common in newer homes. What’s even more ironic is though it is a less expensive option for builder grade it is at least $2.50/per sq. ft. currently (wood prices are atrocious). The trim I create is more like $.60/per sq. ft. which is quite a sizable difference. Especially when you consider the amount an entire house uses!

Builder grade trim lacks definition, it’s thin at only 2 1/2″ so it doesn’t make much of a statement. Especially as a header atop windows and doors. It’s basically just there to hide the ugliness of the door frame. But I want more than that. I want the feel of an older home, history, charm, a feeling when I walk into my room that it wasn’t just the quickest option but real craftsmanship went into it.

How Do You Build Farmhouse-Style Trim Cheap?

The answer to that question is simple, you buy the cheapest wood without sacrificing quality, which is common lumber and furring strips. I am using 1x6x8 for the header above windows and doors, 1x4x8 for the sides, bottom, and windowsill, and 1x2x8s between the other two to build all of my farmhouse-style trim in my home. The whole process starts in the hardware store, I actually go through the entire process of how to pick the best cheap wood in my post How to Make Cheap Wood Look Pretty which is a prerequisite to this post.

This is the breakdown of where each piece goes for window trim. Baseboard and chair rail are super easy as they’re just a 1x4x8 trimmed down in the process explained here.

How Do You Make Cheap Trim?

Let me tell you how I’m building my trim. Initially, I was building a much simpler version without the 1x2s and decided, for me, it was too plain. So, I went to the hardware store and picked up a handful of 1x2x8s. Then I ripped the curved edges (1/8″) off using my table saw. To finish, I sanded thoroughly with an orbital sander (80 grit and then finish with 120 grit).

But if you didn’t mind a more plain trim it would be even cheaper and simpler to make. It was made simply using 1 – 1x6x8 for the header and the rest was 1x4x8s. My windows are long, the size of your windows and doors will decide how many 1x4x8s you will need for the total length. My windows and doors took 2 full 1x4x8s.

The Baseboard

All the farmhouse-style baseboards are 1x4x8s, which is a furring strip. Typically they’re pretty homely looking, but with a few extra steps using a table saw and an orbital sander they clean up really nicely.

I run both sides through my table saw and rip off 1/4″ on either side to take the rounded edge off. This creates a really clean premium appearance. And once you sand it you’ll never know this is basically the lowest quality pine you can purchase!

This is the same process you would use if creating a Farmhouse-style chair rail as I’m using in my dining room project.

The Process to Build Farmhouse-Style Trim

Step 1 Rip Your Boards on A Table Saw *optional

I go through this entire process in detail in my post How to Make Cheap Wood Look Pretty. But essentially for a 1x4x8, you will start by taking your table saw and adjusting your guard to 3 1/4″ for the first pass. Rip all your boards through at this adjustment. Then move your guard to 3″ for the second pass. Remember to turn the boards to the other edge. This will eliminate the rounded edge and give your wood a premium appearance for pennies on the dollar.

Step 2 Sand Your Boards Smooth

I use my orbital sander (which is on my list of The 10+ Essential Tools for the DIYer). I typically start with an 80 grit sanding pad to really get all the roughest spots off. Be careful on the sides to sand extremely straight otherwise you will round your edges that you just cut flat. Then I move to 120 grit to finish. Since I’m painting and not staining I don’t bother with 220 grit in this instance.

Step 3 Measure Your Area

You will measure your area, door, or window. Measure twice, cut once is the best advice for this step. In fact, I would measure each piece one at a time because it is easy to be off by 1/8″ or 2/8″. Being off that small won’t be a huge thing to cover with caulk if you are planning on painting. Also, any gap will increase with sanding. So try to eliminate any sizable gap by measuring accurately to start.

I started with the top of my window, the header, and worked my way down. So, measure the inside width of your window then add 3″ to each side to account for the trim. I also allowed for a 1″ overhang on either side. The math was 36″+6″+2″ = 44″ Total width for my 1x6x8 and 2 – 1x2x8 boards.

Once you’ve cut all 3 of those boards you will measure the windowsill width and depth. I used a 1x4x8 paired with a 1x2x8 to cut costs (they’re less expensive than a 1x6x8, which is about $10.50/ea right now).

The bottom part of the window, the footer, will be measured in the exact same way as the header, so it will likely be the exact same measurement. But measure again just out of an abundance of caution.

When you have your header and your footer you will measure the sides. I quickly nailed my header and footer into place with 2 brad nails using my Ryobi Cordless Brad Nailer just to be able to measure accurately.

It’s hard to get a head-on shot of windows because of the light they bring. But this is the entirety of the window. Pre-installed just to ensure everything fits before sanding it down.

Step 4 Initial Cuts & Miter Cuts

For the baseboard, you will want to miter each connecting edge to 45°. This results in a tighter and “easier to hide” seam. You will also cut at 45° for each corner. Remember to turn your wood so each angle meets in a sandwich. It is opposite of the connecting seam for straight pieces connecting on a wall.

For Windows, you will have no miter cuts. But I did do initial cuts (the first cut to eliminate rough edges on each piece end of a board) basically to ensure really tight seams.

For Doors, you will have no miter cuts. But, again, I did initial cuts because I wanted as clean of a look as possible.

For Chair Rail, you will have 45° miter cuts with every corner in a room. The same as the baseboard.

Notice the 45° angle. Once it is filled with caulk or spackle you will never notice it there. It’s so easy to build farmhouse-style trim. I’m so happy I started this project.

Step 5 Connecting Pieces

For the header – Once you have all of your pieces cut and sanded it’s time to connect them together!

Take your 1×6 and lay it on a hard flat surface on its side. On top of the 1×6 apply wood glue (spread it thinly with your finger), lay a 1×2 on the top edge, and make sure the ends are flush. Hold firm while you nail the two boards together.

Turn it over and do this process with the second 1×2.

For the footer – Take your 1×4 and lay it on its side on a hard flat surface, apply wood glue (spread it thinly with your finger), lay the 1×2 on the top edge, and make sure the ends are flush. Hold firm while you nail the two boards together.

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Step 6 The Installation

You’ve done the hard part, now time for the reward, seeing the beautiful handmade farmhouse-style trim installed. This is easier as a two-person job, but I did it myself so it can definitely be done alone.

Header – Have your measuring tape in hand, prepped at 6″ and locked in that position. Hold up your completed header and measure 4″ on either side of the window to ensure you’re installing it in the center evenly.

Sides – Simply hold it flush with the edge of your windows. Pop one brad nail in the top to hold it in place, then go down the length of it ensuring you’re pulling it flush with the window edge as you go down until you hit the bottom. Then pop a few brad nails in the outside edges.

Footer – Install with the 1×2 at the top of the 1×4. Measure 1″ on each side of the side trim, push it up flush with the sides and the windowsill as much as possible (the windowsill might need to be sanded down to create flush seams with the footer, mine did). Hold firmly and nail in under the 1×2 into the 1×4 portion.

Farmhouse-style trim was installed on my back door in the dining room. It definitely makes a statement. You can see the spackling covering up any nail holes as I prep to paint.

PDF Printable & YouTube Tutorial

Continue to Content

How to Build Farmhouse-Style Trim Cheap

Yield:

Window, Door, Baseboard, & Chair Rail Trim

Prep Time:

1 hour

30 minutes

Active Time:

30 minutes

Additional Time:

30 minutes

Total Time:

2 hours

30 minutes

Difficulty:

Medium Difficulty

Estimated Cost:

$50.00 – $75.00

This is the entire process, step by step, how to build farmhouse-style baseboard, window trim, door trim, as well as chair rail trim.

Materials

• 1x4x8
• 1x2x8
• 1x6x8

Tools

• Table Saw
• Orbital Sander
• 80 & 120 grit sanding discs
• Wood glue
• 1 1/2″ 18 gauge Brad Nails
• Cordless Brad Nailer
• Measuring Tape
• Pencil

Instructions

1. Step One – Rip Your Boards on a Tablesaw *OPTIONAL I go through this entire process in detail in my post How to Make Cheap Wood Look Pretty. But essentially for a 1x4x8, you will start by taking your table saw and adjusting your guard to 3 ¼” for the first pass. Rip all your boards through at this adjustment. Then move your guard to 3″ for the second pass. Remember to turn the boards to the other edge. This will eliminate the rounded edge and give your wood a premium appearance for pennies on the dollar.
2. Step Two – Sand Your Boards Smooth I use my orbital sander (which is on my list of The 10+ Essential Tools for the DIYer). I typically start with an 80 grit sanding pad to really get all the roughest spots off. Be careful on the sides to sand extremely straight otherwise you will round your edges that you just cut flat. Then I move to 120 grit to finish. Since I’m painting and not staining I don’t bother with 220 grit in this instance.
3. Step Three – Measure Your Area You will measure your area, door, or window. Measure twice, cut once is the best advice for this step. In fact, I would measure each piece one at a time because it is easy to be off by ⅛” or 2/8″. Being off that small won’t be a huge thing to cover with caulk if you are planning on painting. Also, any gap will increase with sanding. So try to eliminate any sizable gap by measuring accurately to start. I started with the top of my window, the header, and worked my way down. So, measure the inside width of your window then add 3″ to each side to account for the trim. I also allowed for a 1″ overhang on either side. The math was 36″+6″+2″ = 44″ Total inches with for my 1x6x8 and 2 – 1x2x8 boards. Once you’ve cut all 3 of those boards you will measure the windowsill width and depth. I used a 1x4x8 paired with a 1x2x8 to cut costs (they’re less expensive than a 1x6x8, which is about $10.50/ea right now). The bottom part of the window, the footer, will be measured in the exact same way as the header, so it will likely be the exact same measurement. But measure again just out of an abundance of caution. When you have your header and your footer you will measure the sides. I quickly nailed my header and footer into place with 2 brad nails using my Ryobi Cordless Brad Nailer just to be able to measure accurately.
4. Step Four – Initial Cuts & Miter Cuts For the baseboard, you will want to miter each connecting edge to 45°. This results in a tighter and “easier to hide” seam. You will also cut at 45° for each corner. Remember to turn your wood so each angle meets in a sandwich. It is opposite of the connecting seam for straight pieces connecting on a wall. For Windows, you will have no miter cuts. But I did do initial cuts (the first cut to eliminate rough edges on each piece end of a board) basically to ensure really tight seams. For Doors, you will have no miter cuts. But, again, I did initial cuts because I wanted as clean of a look as possible. For Chair Rail, you will have 45° miter cuts with every corner in a room. The same as the baseboard.
5. Step Five- Connecting PIeces For the header – Once you have all of your pieces cut and sanded it’s time to connect them together. Take your 1×6 and lay it on a hard flat surface on its side. On top of the 1×6 apply wood glue (spread it thinly with your finger), lay a 1×2 on the top edge, and make sure the ends are flush. Hold firm while you nail the two boards together. Turn it over and do this process with the second 1×2. For the footer – Take your 1×4 and lay it on its side on a hard flat surface, apply wood glue (spread it thinly with your finger), lay the 1×2 on the top edge, and make sure the ends are flush. Hold firm while you nail the two boards together.
6. Step Six – The Installation You’ve done the hard part, now time for the reward, seeing the beautiful handmade farmhouse-style trim installed. This is easier as a two-person job, but I did it myself so it can definitely be done alone. Header – Have your measuring tape in hand, prepped at 6″ and locked in that position. Hold up your completed header and measure 4″ on either side of the window to ensure you’re installing it in the center evenly. Sides – Simply hold it flush with the edge of your windows. Pop one brad nail in the top to hold it in place, then go down the length of it ensuring you’re pulling it flush with the window edge as you go down until you hit the bottom. Then pop a few brad nails in the outside edges. Footer – Install with the 1×2 at the top of the 1×4. Measure 1″ on each side of the side trim, push it up flush with the sides and the windowsill as much as possible (the windowsill might need to be sanded down to create flush seams with the footer, mine did). Hold firmly and nail in under the 1×2 into the 1×4 portion.

Notes

The number of boards you will need (1x6x8, 1x4x8, and 1x2x8) will solely depend on the size of your door, window, or room project you’re doing. So, you could take the time to measure completely or just do part of the room at a time as I chose to. I did all of the baseboards, then one window at a time, one door at a time, then the chair rail.

Q&A

What is Farmhouse Trim Called?

When I use the term “farmhouse-style trim” what I’m meaning is craftsman-style trim in terms of the overall look and feel. American Craftsman style was inspired by the British Arts and Crafts movement.

Like political elections, architectural movements are often a result of what has come before, a rebellion against the status quo. Craftsman homes are an American architectural tradition that emerged and spread primarily between 1900 and 1929. It was a backlash against the mass-produced, Industrial Revolution-fueled Victorian architecture boom that prized ornament and decoration made all the more accessible by new technologies.

If the Industrial Revolution celebrated the wonders of manmade materials and the possibilities of what machines could do for people, Craftsman architecture was an aesthetic reaffirmation of the beauty of natural materials and forms, and the marvels of what humans can make with their own hands. 

The Spruce.com

There is of course a victorian option of farmhouse trim, but this would typically involve much more decorative carved trim and rosettes. I love that look, but this house doesn’t scream victorian. So, I’m saving that for my dream home. For now, I will simply build farmhouse-style trim in this house by using the Arts and Crafts Style as my inspiration!

During the period of Queen Victoria’s reign — from 1837 to 1901 — intricate trim styles abounded, reflecting the enthusiasm of a nascent middle class and the scroll saw’s ability to replicate fancy stonemasonry designs in wood. Trim motifs are as diverse as the Victorian era with its succession of revival styles. A plethora of scrolled and geometrical styles intermix easily for exterior and interior use, and for an ultra-custom Victorian look, you can paint your trim.

HomeGuides.sfgate.com

What is The Cheapest Wood for Trim?

A medium-density fiberboard is a popular option for trim because it’s typically the cheapest. It does come with its own set of issues, though. MDF won’t perform as well in wet, humid areas.

And while this is the least expensive option, typically, I personally never choose to use anything other than real wood. I try my best to not sacrifice quality in my quest for the cheapest way to DIY a project. So, to build farmhouse-style trim I chose to use Common Lumber and Furring Strips which is real pine wood and is a comparable price to MDF sheets.

Let’s Do the Math

I actually did the math for you. Currently, in my area, a 4’x8′ sheet of 3/4″ MDF is $60. So, to compare we would have to do 48″÷3″ = 16 boards; $60÷16 = $3.50 per board. In essence, you save $1.00 per board to use MDF vs real pine wood. At least that’s how the math works for me.

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Hi, I’m Julie! Mother to five beautiful kids, Homeschool Educator, Writer, Handicraft & DIY Enthusiast, Photographer, Thrifter, and Furniture Restorer. Follow along for fun DIY projects creating a handmade home on a budget! Read more about me here→