Here’s How to Use a Curling Iron for Better Results | SELF

If your hair just can’t seem to hold a curl no matter how you hold your curling iron, don’t worry, you’re not alone. You might not know how to use a curling iron—and that’s completely understandable. There’s a lot of factors involved with effectively curling your hair, including using the right styling products, figuring out the best temperature for your hair type, and maintaining your overall hair health. That’s why we asked a hairstylist and a dermatologist about how to use a curling iron or curling wand for the best results. Below, you’ll find their advice, along with helpful photos.

1. Start with dry hair.

You should start with completely dry hair before using a curling iron, flatiron, or curling wand, says Shilpi Khetarpal, M.D., dermatologist at the Cleveland Clinic. “Putting any kind of heat on wet hair is going to be much more traumatic compared to when the hair is dry because the cuticle is completely open and exposed. You’re going to damage it more when it’s wet,” says Dr. Khetarpal. All hot tools, including blow dryers—can make your hair weak. However, devices like curling irons apply heat directly onto your hair, which is why you should avoid using them on damp or wet hair. Keeping your hair as healthy as possible is important in achieving curls, which we’ll get to next.

2. Avoid using a curling iron on damaged hair.

Your hair might be hard to style if it’s damaged, says Dr. Khetarpal. Hair is made with protein that’s held together by disulfide bonds. (These are very strong chemical bonds that keep the protein strong.) In healthy hair, these bonds are unbroken, but elements like sunlight, bleach, hot tools, and hair dyes, can weaken the bonds and make them break, explains Dr. Khetarpal. When this happens, hair becomes damaged and won’t hold a curl. “It just lies there,” says Dr. Khetarpal. “Think of it as almost like burnt hay. It’s just kind of frazzled, and it doesn’t hold form.” If you notice that your hair feels drier or frizzier than normal, then it may be damaged, says Dr. Khetarpal. Another big sign? Split ends. That brings us to our next tip…

3. Try not to use hot tools daily.

There’s no denying that heat strips your hair of its natural oil and makes it dry, says Dr. Khetarpal. She recommends using hot tools every other day at most. If you really prefer to use a curling iron every day, then look for other ways to keep your hair healthier—like towel drying or even air drying your hair instead of blow-drying if you can.

4. Use the right size and type of curling iron or wand. 

Different sizes of irons create different curl styles, according to hairstylist Janine Jennings, who is head of education and training at U.K. hair-care company GHD. For example, a 1.25-inch barrel provides softer curls that are larger in size, whereas a smaller 1-inch barrel will give you smaller curls, she says. Use a curling wand if you want that tousled beach wave style with a larger curl at the root and a tighter curl towards the end. Curling wands also have one benefit over a curling iron: They won’t leave clamp marks on your hair. Jennings recommends the following options, which are all pictured below: GHD Curve 1.25″ Soft Curl Iron ($199, Sephora), GHD Curve 1″ Classic Curl Iron ($199, Sephora), and the GHD Curve Creative Curl Wand ($199, Sephora)

1.25″ Barrel = Soft Voluminous Curls

Katie Thompson

1″ Barrel = Tighter Ringlets

Katie Thompson

Curling Wand = Beach Waves

Katie Thompson

5. Use the lowest temperature on your curling iron if you can. 

“Try to use the least amount of heat possible,” Dr. Khetarpal says. “It’s a good rule of thumb to keep your tool under 400 degrees,” she says. Of course, everyone’s hair is different. Generally speaking, people with fine hair require less heat to curl their hair compared to people with thick hair, she says. You can change the temperature on many curling irons, but not all devices have this capability. If your device has this feature, Dr. Khetarpal recommends curling your hair at the lowest temperature setting on the iron. If your hair doesn’t curl at that setting, then gradually increase the heat until it does.

If your device only offers one heat setting, you can typically find the temperature information on the manufacturer’s website or packaging if you still have it. You’ll need this to make sure you’re using a heat styling protectant that works with your specific tool.

6. Always use a heat protectant.

A heat protectant can act as a barrier between your hot tools and your hair. There are a variety of formulas that you can use on either dry hair or wet hair before blow drying, explains Dr. Khetarpal. Before using any product, you’ll want to read the instructions to make sure that it’s suited for your particular use, hair type, and hot tools. “Reading the fine print is key,” says Dr. Khetarpal. For example, a product that only protects up to 300 degrees won’t be as effective if your curling iron is set to 400 degrees. And while we’re talking about heat protection, it’s a good idea to use a heat-protecting glove to keep your fingers safe, especially if you’re using a curling wand. This Kiloline Professional Heat Resistant Glove ($6, Amazon) has thousands of positive customer reviews.

7. Section your hair for the style you want to achieve.

Let’s talk about parting. It seems like a small detail, but the direction you part your hair can affect the final style. “If you want volume, you’re going to take a horizontal section and curl while lifting from the root,” Jennings explains. “But if you want a wavy look, use a vertical section.” She recommends that people with thick hair types curl their hair using 1-inch sections at a time. People with medium to fine hair types can use 1.5-inch sections of hair.

A horizontal part gives volume at the root.

Katie Thompson

A vertical part is better for wavy looks.

Katie Thompson

8. Try curling your hair in multiple directions.

You will achieve different results based on the direction that you curl your hair. If you curl in just one direction, then your hair will blend together. Jennings recommends alternating the direction of each curl to make your hair look tousled. For example, if you curl your hair away from you in one section, try switching it up by going the opposite direction for the next.

9. Learn how to hold the barrel properly.

If you use a curling wand, Jennings recommends holding it vertically with the narrowest end pointed down. However, you can hold a curling iron in different directions depending on your desired results, she says. As we mentioned, hold it horizontally if you want more volume at the root or vertically if you want to produce a loose curl.