Building Your DIY Acoustic Panels

Step 1: Understanding the Dimensions

First things first, it is important to understand that the standard way everyone refers to common board sizes is not exactly indicative of their measurements.  In fact, a 1x5x8 (as it’s commonly called at your nearby building supply store) actually measures 3/4 inch x 4 1/2 inches x 8 feet.  

The second important thing to note before we begin is that your insulation is 2 feet x 4 feet.  You do not want to get involved in cutting your insulation since doing that will release a ton of tiny fiberglass particles into the air.  Believe me, you do not want that.  These tiny fiberglass bits can pierce your eyes, get under your skin, and wreak havoc on your respiratory system.  Furthermore, when handling your fiberglass insulation, it is best to wear a mask over your nose and mouth, safety glasses, and heavy duty gloves.  I can tell you from experience that having these tiny slivers of fiberglass under your skin is not a pleasant experience.  

Because you are not going to cut your 2′ x 4′ piece of insulation, that means that the interior of your wooden frame will need to be exactly 2′ x 4′.  So, the total dimensions of your wooden frame’s exterior will be slightly larger.  

Step 2: cut the wood

First, you will cut the wood for the sides of your frame.  To do this, measure exactly four feet down the length of one of your 1x5x8 common boards (remember that in reality this measures 3/4 inch x 4 1/2 inches x  8 feet).  Make a pencil mark that extends the full width of the piece of wood.  Use your saw to cut along this line.  Now you have two pieces of wood that each measure 3/4 inch x 4 1/2 inches x 4 feet.  These are your sides.

Next, you will cut the wood for the top and bottom of your frame.  To do this, measure 2 feet 1.5 inches down the length of your remaining 1x5x8.  Mark this line with a pencil mark that extends the full width of the piece of wood.  This will be your first cut mark.  Next, measure another 2 feet 1.5 inches down the length of the same piece of wood from your first cut mark.  This will be your second cut mark.  Use your saw to cut the wood along these lines.  You should now have two pieces that are 2 feet 1 1/2 inches in length and 3 feet 9 inches of extra wood.  Set the extra wood piece aside for a future project.  

step 3: assemble the outer frame

Now, you have two pieces of each length of wood.  The two pieces that are  4 feet in length are your sides and the two pieces which are 2 feet 1.5 inches are your top and bottom.  Now, lay out your frame so that it is ready to assemble.  When fully assembled, the shortest side of your wood pieces (3/4 inch) will face outward toward the room.

Use your electric drill to drill two pilot holes into what will be the top of the top piece 3/8 inch in from the outer right edge and 1 inch from the front and back.  Make sure that the pilot hole is noticeably smaller than the wood screw you plan to use.  If you are unsure which drill bit to use, it is always best to use a smaller one than you think you need and work your way up to the right size.  If you make too large of a hole on your first try, there is no going back. 

Once your pilot holes have been drilled, use your electric screwdriver (by changing the drill bit to a screwdriver bit) to insert a screw through the pilot hole and into the right side piece of wood.  

Next, fit the left side piece (4 feet in length) below your top piece.  Repeat the drilling of pilot holes and insertion of two wood screws as noted above .  These should also be 3/8 inch in from the outer left edge and 1 inch in from the front and back of the top piece of wood.  

Then, fit the bottom piece (2 feet 1.5 inches in length) below your left and right side pieces.  Use the same method to attach it with two wood screws each on the left and right sides.  You now have a wooden frame that measures 2 feet x 4 feet on inside and 2 feet 1 1/2 inches x 4 feet 1/2 inches on the outside.  See the drawing above for a good look at what the assembled frame will look like.  

STEP 4: ADD THE BACK

To add the back of your panel, begin by placing the frame on the ground.  Then, attach  two of the 1/4 inch offset clips to each side of the top of the frame (top, bottom, left, and right), equidistant from one another, pointed toward the interior of the frame.  Keep in mind that the purpose of these is to keep the MDF back 1/4 inch inset from the rear side of the frame.  So, they will attach so that they look like a step down into the panel frame.  Do not attach them so that they stick out above the frame.  

Once the offset clips have been screwed into the frame, flip it over and insert the 2 feet x 4 feet piece of MDF into the frame.  

STEP 5: INSERT THE INSULATION

For this step, you will want to wear your protective gear: heavy gloves, safety mask, and safety glasses. Take your frame and insulation package outside.  Remove the insulation from its packaging, and insert it into the front of the frame (the side without the MDF back).  If you are using 2 inch pieces, insert two.  If you are using 4 inch pieces of insulation, you will only need one.  

step 6: wrap the frame with fabric

As mentioned in the SOURCING YOUR MATERIALS section above, you will have the best results if you use a layer of light polyester batting between your frame and your fabric.  The batting helps to smooth the upholstery and keep the wooden frame from tearing the fabric.  Lay the batting on a table, then lay the panel upside down on top of it (with the MDF back pointing up at you).  Center the panel on top of your cut batting, then pull a small section tight around the frame, staple it into place on the back of the frame.  Continue to do this as you move from the left side to the right side, then the top and then bottom of the panel, creating neatly creased corners when you reach them.  Don’t wrap them like a present, but instead tuck the corner under so you achieve a crease exactly at the corner.  When you have finished and you have checked the front of the panel to be sure that it is smooth and tight, cut off any excess batting of with a pair of scissors.  

Now, you are ready to complete the same process with your fabric.  Lay your fabric out on the table and place your frame on top of it with the long sides matching up with the long sides of your cut fabric.  You need exactly 3 feet x 5 feet of fabric to cover the frame and staple it on the back side.  However, you have three inches of extra length on each side so that you can have a margin of error if necessary and to allow you to folder over the back edges to make a clean seam.  

Begin by pulling the right side of the fabric tight over the right side of the frame.  You should have 3 inches extra.  Fold this under and begin stapling the fabric to the back of the frame, starting about 1/4 of the way down the side and moving down until you reach the bottom, pulling the fabric tight and folding the edge under in small segments as you go.  Then, return to the top and continue to fold the fabric under and staple it while pulling taut until you reach the top.  

Now, move to the left side of the frame.  Begin again about 1/4 of the way down the side and pull the fabric as tight and straight as possible.  Again, fold the extra fabric under while pulling taut in small segments and staple as you go.  When you have reached the bottom return to the top portion, making sure to smooth the fabric so there are no gaps or creases and continue to fold and staple until you reach the top.  

Follow these instructions again on the top and the bottom, tucking the top and bottom corner fabric under to make a clean crease exactly at the corner.  Once finished, turn the panel over and check to be sure that there are no creases or sagging areas on the fabric.  You should have no extra fabric to cut since you have been folding the excess under as you go.

step 7: prepare the panel for hanging

Now, you will use your picture frame hanging kit to prepare your acoustic panel to be hung.  Follow the instructions in the package and insert the eyelet screws about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the panel, inside the frame.  This is why we left 1/4 inch of depth empty behind the MDF back.  

Attach the eyelet screws, the attach the included picture wire, making sure to twist the ends according to the package instructions (in a tight noose-like wrap, not a loose twist).   Make sure that when you pull the picture wire taut with one finger as if hanging it from a hook, your finger should be about two inches from the top of the frame. 

You have now completed your first DIY acoustic panel for your home studio!