Cheap Eats: Black Napkin offers smash burgers, ‘custy dust’ fries, housemade craft sodas

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GRAND RAPIDS, MI – There’s a new place in Grand Rapids that’s serving up classic takeout food with a unique twist.

Korin Hollinshead and Jason Richardson opened Black Napkin at 966 E. Fulton St. in October because they wanted a storefront to sell their brand of popsicles, Any Colour You Like. It didn’t take them long to realize the potential of serving quick and easy food from the location in the bustling East Hills neighborhood, east of downtown.

“It’s just easy, fast food,” Hollinshead said. “Burgers, chicken sandwiches and fries with fun twists.”

The best part? The offerings are super affordable.

Black Napkin’s menu features four different smash burgers that can be ordered as a single ($9), double ($12) or triple ($15). The most popular offering is Le College Dropout, which includes Grand cru cheese, smashed Vidalia onion, arugula, peppercorn, tomato jam and herb de Provence mayo.

There’s also a classic burger with the usual toppings and the Big Malcolm, which I ordered. It has similar ingredients to a Big Mac, There’s also the Fussy Hussy, which comes with Swiss cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato and olive mayo. All burgers are served on bread from Nantucket Baking Company and feature meat from Michigan Craft Beef.

The most popular chicken sandwich is the hot, sweet and sticky, which features turmeric slaw, Thai basil mayo and a sweet and spicy chili glaze.

The fries are also a highlight since they can be rolled in “custy dust” like kimchi and parmesan, smoked serrano chili and cheddar cheese and salt and red wine vinegar.

House-made sodas are also a hit. Options include pistachio orange blossom, berry cherry soda, golden cola and ruby red fresca.

Black Napkin, a tongue in cheek name referring to the common color of the cloth napkins used at fine dining establishments, is primarily a takeout joint, but there are a few tables inside the small storefront where customers can enjoy a quick lunch.

It’s busiest on Friday and Saturday evenings, Hollinshead said, and most customers who have visited the spot since it opened in the fall are regulars, but she’s hopeful more new faces will start to arrive once word gets out.

Overall, Black Napkin should be a welcome addition to a neighborhood with no shortage of awesome dining options. The food features fresh, mostly local ingredients crafted in clever ways without losing the classic takeout flare. It’s higher-end than typical fast food, but delievered in the fast-food formula.

One person could easily get a hearty, filling meal for less than $15, but if you want to splurge on things like the sodas, or the popsicles that are available, you can do that, too.

Black Napkin

What: Burgers, chicken sandwiches, fries and sodas for takeout

Where: 966 Fulton Street East, Grand Rapids

Hours: Wednesday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

See the menu here

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