Rolex Submariner | Chrono24.com

Like most vintage Rolex watches, older Submariner models are highly coveted. Two examples of popular reference numbers are the 5512 and 5513, which were introduced all the way back in the late 1950s and early 1960s, respectively. Even though both models were produced for a number of years, there are currently very few pieces available on the market. You can get a ref. 5513 for around 15,000 USD, while you will need well over 30,000 USD for a ref. 5512 in good condition. The ref. 5512 has almost tripled in price over the last ten years, but the ref. 5513 won’t be left in the dust: It’s risen to almost double what it cost in 2012. The odds are good that this trend will continue, meaning that both models are an attractive investment opportunity.

Timepieces with the reference numbers 16800 and 168000 from the 1980s are more affordable. These two Rolex Submariners have a date display and are somewhat easier to get your hands on than their older sister models. This has not gone unnoticed by collectors, leading to a strong upturn in demand in recent years. Of course, this means that the models are also appreciating in value. In mid-2022, you’re looking at around 13,000 USD for a ref. 16800, whereas this model changed hands for approx. 10,000 USD in 2020. It’s a similar story for the ref. 168000, which jumped from approx. 8,500 USD to 15,000 USD in the same period.

James Bond’s Original 5513: Worth 365,000 USD

In November 2001, Christie’s auction house sold the original Submariner 5513 from the 1973 James Bond movie “Live and Let Die” for 25,850 GBP (approximately 38,000 USD at the time). The same watch went on the auction block again in 2015, this time at Phillips. When the bidding was all said and done and the premiums added, it nabbed an impressive 365,000 USD. That means its price increased almost tenfold in 14 years.

The “James Bond Sub” ref. 6538 is another popular model among collectors. Sean Connery wore this timepiece as James Bond in 1962’s “Dr. No.” If you’re lucky enough to find one of these watches, you’ll need well over 105,000 USD to call it your own.

Popular Collectibles: “Red Sub,” COMEX, and More

Some Rolex watches are irresistible to fans and connoisseurs alike. The “Red Sub” is one such highly sought-after collectible. Rolex produced the Submariner with reference number 1680 between 1967 and 1980. The word “Submariner” was written in red on the dial until 1974, thus earning it the nickname “Red Sub.”

Between 1967 and 1974, Rolex produced the Red Sub with numerous dial designs, labeled Mark I through Mark VI by fans. At first glance, the models may seem identical, but the trained eye will notice subtle differences in the typography and whether the depth rating on the dial is indicated first in meters or feet. Watch enthusiasts are just as enamored of models with tropical dials where the watch’s dial and bezel fade to brown over time.

Depending on the condition and dial design, prices for Red Subs can fall anywhere between 31,000 USD and 64,000 USD. These watches are rare, so it comes as no surprise that they are very likely to increase in value. In the last 12 months alone, prices have risen 50% on average.

Many collectors dream of getting their hands on one of the Submariner models Rolex developed specifically for the Compagnie maritime d’expertises (COMEX), a French company renowned for their underwater exploration technology. These watches (ref. 5514) were produced from the 1970s to the 1990s and have since performed well financially, making them sound investment pieces. Two years ago, you could have bought a ref. 5514 for no more than 49,000 USD. In mid-2022, however, listings on Chrono24 are closer to 136,000 USD.