Cheap Eats – Baltimore Magazine

Bolton Hill/ Station North


On the Hill Cafe

A hangout for Bolton Hill residents and MICA students alike, On the Hill Cafe has the aesthetic of a classic coffee shop and a reputation that explains the
frequent line out the door. The draw is that On the Hill boasts a strong commitment to the barn-to-belly movement. (Eggs are sourced from Glencoe’s
Springfield Farms and bread hails from Hyattsville’s Uptown Bakers and Baltimore’s Stone Mill Bakery, for instance.) Look for satisfying breakfast staples
such as quiche ($4.25) and a breakfast burrito ($6), while lunch fare features veggie sandwiches like the Eutaw with balsamic-glazed beets, avocado, goat
cheese, and peppercorn mayo ($7.75), as well as grass-fed beef burgers ($8.50), and Mexican-inspired dishes such as tamale cakes ($8).How low can you go? The Belgian waffles with maple syrup and semi-sweet chocolate chips deliver big bang for the buck ($5.35). 1431 John Street, 410-225-9667.

Sofi’s Crepes

There’s not much we haven’t sampled at Sofi’s six locations, which gives us the authority to say that the beauty of a Sofi’s crepe is that it can morph
into any meal. Skipped the most important meal of the day? Consider the sausage, egg, and cheese breakfast crepe for lunch ($7.25). Need a more robust
repast? The barbecue-shredded-pork with cheddar-cheese iteration ($8.25) should fit the bill. Hankering for dessert (and something that counts as a serving
of fruit)? May we suggest the Bananarama with sliced bananas, granola, honey, and peanut butter ($6.15)? If flying to Montmartre isn’t currently on your
calendar, trust us, a trip to Sofi’s will make you feel like you’ve been transported to the City of Lights. How low can you go? Don’t be
fooled by the name: The Plain Jane ($4.15)—with a dusting of cinnamon and sprinkling of sugar—is simple, yet sublime. Numerous locations including

1723 N. Charles Street, 410-727-7732.

Charles Village

Georgia Soul Food

With all the emphasis on trendy small plates these days, it can be challenging to find a stick-to-your-ribs home-style eatery. So it’s no wonder then that
Georgia Soul Food is on our minds. Indulge in one of the restaurant’s “Everyday Meals,” including a well-seasoned protein like fried chicken ($7.99-8.99)
or pig’s feet ($8.99), plus two heaping helpings of sides and a slab of cornbread. Want to supersize it? Check the “Add a Bite” section to heap on an extra
portion of meat ($.99), such as an extra chicken leg. Church picnic-worthy versions of the classic sides can be ordered a la carte—consider collards
($2.95), mac and cheese ($3.85), or candied yams ($2.95). How low can you go? A Salisbury steak with gravy, rice, and two sides ($7.99) is
always a good bet. 102 E. 25th Street, 443-708-1145.

Mi Comalito Restaurant

The Comalito family opened this Mexican/Salvadorean/Honduran joint in late 2013 and has already found a neighborhood niche in lower Charles Village serving
plates of cheesy tacos, burritos, and quesadillas, along with more sophisticated fare like mariscada ($19.95), a creamy seafood soup boasting
lobster, shrimp, and clams. We opted for the equivalent of surf and turf with the plato mixto mi comalito ($15.99), which offers a little bit of
everything, including grilled steak, chicken, and shrimp in a sour-cream sauce. Sides of rice, fried beans, and salad complement the courses, but the real
showstoppers are the straight-from-the-fryer tortillas, which are somewhere between the thickness of a crepe and a pancake, and just as tasty. How low can you go? A mixed pupusa ($2) crams cheese, beans, and pork into said tortilla and will keep you happy until your
entrée arrives. 2101 N. Charles Street, 410-837-6033.

Cheap Eats Cheat Sheet

Looking for foods that offer great taste without costing a monthly mortgage payment? Here are the five pillars of cheap eats, with tips on where to try them. Tap or click below to learn more.

Downtown/Mt. Vernon

Dukem

Perched precariously on the curve where Maryland Avenue, Cathedral Street, and Chase Street knot together in Mt. Vernon, this Ethiopian outpost doesn’t
offer parking or ambiance, but it delivers on the important stuff: the food. We recommend the Dukem special tibs with lamb ($15.50, or with beef
$13.95). An aromatic mix of diced lamb, onions, tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, and jalapeños, it’s served piping hot on swaths of the cuisine’s signature
spongy Injera bread, which does a wonderful job sopping up the stew. How low can you go? A veggie sambusa ($2.75, with meat is
$3.50) is like an Ethiopian empanada. The flaky pastry crust surrounds lentils, onions, and jalapeños for a piquant, filling snack. 1100 Maryland Avenue, 410-385-0318.

The Helmand

We often advise our single friends that The Helmand is the perfect first-date spot due to its casual, yet intimate ambiance, unobtrusive service, great
food, and, of course, reasonable prices (a powerful saving grace should the date go south). Also helpful is that Afghani food, while exotic-seeming at
first, actually incorporates mostly familiar flavors: the must-order kaddo borwani ($5.25) is perfectly cooked sweet pumpkin with garlicky yogurt
sauce, banjan laghatak ($5.25) is a savory stew of eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, and mint yogurt, while many of the entrees are a grilled or stewed
protein served with challow or pallow (both seasoned rice). Be sure to study the always-extensive specials list, and save room for the
cardamom vanilla ice cream with fresh mango and dried dates and figs ($5.25). How low can you go? Most of the appetizers are modestly
portioned, but the vegetarian aush ($5.25) is a hearty and filling soup made with homemade noodles, potatoes, carrots, nine different varieties of
beans, and yogurt mint sauce—this and perhaps one other appetizer are enough for a quick and healthy light meal. 806 N. Charles Street, 410-752-0311.

Mt. Vernon Stable & Saloon

The Stable is one of the few real neighborhood restaurants in the Vern, with most other establishments having more targeted themes or ethnic leanings.
Downstairs is the bar with plenty of seating for diners, while upstairs is slightly fancier and brighter. The menu is classic catch-all American
bar/restaurant eats, including sandwiches, burgers, pastas, seafood, and Mexican-inflected fare. The real value is in the weekly specials, most famously
Monday rib nights, when a full rack of baby-backs are just $8.95 (often less than a half-rack just about anywhere else). Other nights of the week feature
New York strips with two sides for $13.95 (normally $20), and a chef’s choice blue-plate special ($10.95). How low can you go? On Tuesdays
after 5 p.m., consider fish tacos (two
for $5) and a can of Natty Boh ($2) for about what it costs to park on Charles Street for three hours. 909 N. Charles Street, 410-685-7427.

Zhongshan Restaurant

As a rule, one must look past the typical take-out Chinese menu items (General Tso’s chicken, beef and broccoli, etc.) and dig deeper to discover that more
authentic Chinese delicacies are on offer. At Zhongshan, look no further than the dim-sum menu to get to the good stuff. Though Zhongshan doesn’t offer the
usual pomp and circumstance of cart service, no single item costs more than $4, and offerings such as the house-made pork sao mai dumplings
($3.45), the delicate shrimp rice crepe ($3.45), and steamed ribs with black-bean sauce ($3.45) are all excellent examples of dim-sum classics. How low can you go? A vegetarian version of the aforementioned rice crepe ($2.95) costs less than you’d pay for a soda almost anywhere
else. 323 Park Avenue, 410-223-1881.

The gyro with fries from Greektown Grill.

Greektown/HighlandTown

Chicken Rico

Nothing pretentious here, just a storefront, family-style restaurant with trays, tables, and chairs, beverage coolers along the wall, a flat-screen TV
tuned into soccer, and the sounds of Spanish being spoken everywhere—which is a good sign. Since opening a few years back, Chicken Rico’s Peruvian-style
charcoal-broiled chicken (1/2 chicken, two sides for $8.49) has become a Highlandtown staple and worth a visit for anyone heading to East Baltimore. (And
even if you’re not, it’s worth the drive.) Get ready to roll up your sleeves for fall-off-the bone chicken, lightly dusted with paprika, cumin, and garlic.
Also enjoy hearty Latin-American sides like yucca ($2.99) and plantains ($2.99). The lomo saltado ($10.50), marinated steak strips stir-fried with
vegetables and red and spring onions, hits the spot, too. On weekends, don’t miss the winning ceviche de pescado ($11.79). How low can you go? The superb quarter chicken with two sides and a can of Inca Kola or jugo de coco—aka coconut juice— ($7.50)
is a total palate pleaser. 3728 Eastern Avenue, 410-522-2950.

Greek Town Grill

Tucked into a bustling block of Eastern Avenue, it’s easy to overlook this tiny restaurant among the other popular Greektown dinner destinations. But if
you do, you’ll miss one of the best gyros ($9.99 for the platter) around—tender marinated lamb and beef, sliced and slow-cooked on a rotisserie spit to
perfection. We also love the well-seasoned pork and chicken souvlaki platters, served with rice, pita, fries, tzatziki,
and a small Greek salad ($9.99). There are only
a half-dozen counter stools and four tables inside, but carryout and delivery are also
options. Try the flaky, easy-to-share spanakopita ($4.95). How low can you go? The succulent pork gyro with tomatoes, onions, and
tzatziki, and topped with French fries ($5.89) is our

idea of a food fantasy.

4715 Eastern Avenue,
410-276-GYRO (4976).

Matthew’s Pizza

Baltimore’s first pizzeria, and an institution since 1943, Matthew’s Pizza is the place many Highlandtown folks will tell you they went to on their first
junior-high-school date. On weekend nights, the sidewalk outside the cozy Eastern Avenue restaurant still fills up with local couples and families ready to
devour the where-else-but-in-Baltimore deep-dish crab pie ($14.79). With a thick but light crust, mozzarella, imported Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
melt-in-your-mouth lump crabmeat, and caramelized onions, this quintessential Charm City treat is seasoned with Old Bay and baked to golden goodness. We
highly recommend the 4 Seasons Pie, with artichoke hearts, black olives, mushrooms, and prosciuttini ($11.95 for a large), and the classic Margherita
($10.50 for a large). Throw in a cannoli from Vaccaro’s ($3.95) for a finishing touch. Cut-rate bottles of beer, wine, and mixed drinks are available, too. How low can you go? Try a small traditional pie with cheese and homemade sauce ($8.95)—there’s something to be said for the simple things
in life. 3131 Eastern Avenue, 410-276-8755.

THe Kale salad from breathe Bookstore Café.

Hampden


Breathe Bookstore Café

We’ve always been inspired by the books at this Hampden athenaeum, but owner Susan Weis-Bohlen’s recent idea to add a cafe is a truly enlightened one. From
a spicy chipotle tempeh sandwich on gluten-free bread ($6.98) to an “herbed tofu naanwich” (wrap your mind around tandoori tofu with caramelized onions,
spinach, raisins, and roasted red-pepper and white-bean spread on spelt flour naan for $7.45), this flavorful, filling vegetarian fare, will never leave
you wondering “Where’s the beef?” How low can you go? The eight-ounce portion of Indian kitchari—split yellow mung beans, mixed with
basmati rice, ginger, and veggies—delivers quantity and quality at an unbeatable price ($4.95). 810 W. 36th Street, 410-235-7323.

The Other Corner Charcuterie Bar

As an offshoot—and next-door neighbor—of Corner BYOB in Hampden, The Other Corner (as it’s affectionately known) has all the charm of a dive bar, albeit
one with upscale cuisine and cocktails. Sample a signature charcuterie spread ($13) with options such as prosciutto, bresaola, chèvre, and Point Reyes blue
cheese, plus cornichons and pear jam punctuating the plate. For a complete meal, consider the nightly $20 dinner, which can include pan-seared trout over
squid-ink risotto, a choice of soup or salad, and a complementary beer or glass of wine. Other can’t-miss plates: the frogs legs marinated in soy ($8) and
the garlic-butter bone marrow ($10). How low can you go? During happy hour, charcuterie plates are only $8, plus other items like Parma
ham-wrapped melon ($6) and marinated olives and crostini ($3) are serious steals. 850 W. 36th Street, 443-869-5075.